Nafplio Greece: My Honest Travel Guide to Greece’s Most Charming Town
I have visited many towns in Greece, but Nafplio Greece is the one I keep telling everyone about. It is vibrant, romantic and deeply loved by Greeks and foreigners alike, and after walking its streets, climbing its castles and swimming along its coast, I completely understand why. I filmed my whole trip, and in this guide I share everything I saw, what it really cost, and the tips I wish I had known before I arrived.
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Why I Fell in Love with Nafplio
Nafplio is the capital of the Argolis region in the Peloponnese, and it sits on a little peninsula that pushes out into the Argolic Gulf. The town has two parts. The old town sits on the peninsula, and the new town stretches back into the mainland. Almost everything I wanted to see was in the old part, although the new town has a few nice corners too.
What surprised me most was how convenient it is as a base. There are so many ancient sites nearby that you can do a perfect one day trip and come back to Nafplio in time for dinner by the sea. If you only have a few days, my guide to things to do in Nafplio will help you choose.
A Little History I Learned Along the Way
Nafplio was founded in ancient times, and legend says its name comes from Nauplius, a famous seafarer and son of Poseidon and Amymone. In the Middle Ages it became an important seaport. Under Venetian rule the town was called Napoli di Romania, to tell it apart from Naples in Italy.
Nafplio was one of the first cities liberated during the Greek War of Independence of 1821. In 1823 it became the seat of the new Greek government, and it stayed the capital until 1834, when Athens took over. Walking around, you can feel that history everywhere. I wrote more about it in Nafplio, the first capital of Greece.
How I Got from Athens to Nafplio
I travelled from Athens to Nafplio by bus. Buses run every day and go via the Corinth Isthmus and Argos. They are comfortable and air conditioned, and my journey took about 2 hours and 20 minutes. You can find timetables in my guide to the KTEL bus from Athens to Nafplio.
A little fact I found interesting: Nafplio once had a train service like many towns in the Peloponnese. It was suspended in 2011 during the Greek financial crisis, but you can still see the old railway station in town. For all transport options, read how to get to Nafplio.
Wandering the Nafplio Old Town
The very first thing I recommend is simply walking. The Nafplio old town has its own traditional style, with colourful buildings and doors and shutters painted blue, green, red and even yellow. Bougainvillea hangs over the lanes, and there are shops selling souvenirs, jewellery, shoes and good quality clothing. If you love browsing, see my notes on shopping in Nafplio.
[ADD: your favourite street or moment in the old town, for example a shop, a view or a conversation with a local]
Where I Ate in Nafplio
There are lovely places to eat in the old town and along the seafront. Many of them are psarotavernas, which are fish tavernas serving fresh seafood, but you will also find grill houses, pizzerias and quick bites.
One of my favourite places was Taverna Vyzantio. It is hidden in the winding streets of the old town under a canopy of bougainvillea, and it serves traditional Greek dishes and fresh fish. [ADD: what you ordered and what it cost]
For more ideas, see my list of the best restaurants in Nafplio.
Acronafplia: The Oldest Part of Town
After lunch, I headed up to Acronafplia. This is the oldest part of Nafplio, and until the 13th century it was actually a separate town. The Venetians and the Franks later made it part of the town’s fortifications. It was used as a prison for a time, until someone realised the view was far too good to waste, and hotels were built on the old walls.
This is where you will find the famous selfie spots of Nafplio. They are very popular on social media, so do not expect your photo to be unique, but the view is still worth it. There are also tunnels in the old fortifications. I am not sharing where the entrance is, because going inside may not be safe.
The Abandoned Xenia Hotel
Walking up and down the hills, you will definitely notice a large concrete ruin. This is the old Xenia hotel, which opened in 1961 with 58 rooms and an outdoor restaurant with an open view over the gulf. It closed in 2000 and has slowly fallen apart since.
It was part of the Xenia programme, a government plan after the wars to build modern hotels in scenic and historic places to attract tourism. The name comes from the ancient Greek idea of xenia, hospitality towards strangers as a moral duty. Many people disliked these concrete buildings in historic places, but the programme was a big success at first. Today abandoned Xenia hotels can be found all over Greece. Some people even say this one adds a strange charm to the Nafplio skyline, and I think I agree.
Climbing to Palamidi Fortress
Palamidi Fortress is, to me, one of the most beautiful castles in Greece. It sits on a hill east of Acronafplia and was built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714.
Be ready for a workout. You will hear many different numbers for the steps: legend says 999, some guides say 857, and in my video I mention 913. Whatever the real count, it feels never ending. I explain the story behind the numbers in 999 steps to Palamidi. If you cannot or do not want to walk, there is a road on the other side of the hill, so you can drive or join a bus tour.
Palamidi was also a notorious prison for a little over a hundred years. Today it is an archaeological site open to visitors.
Taking the Boat to Bourtzi Castle
Next on my list was the water castle of Bourtzi Castle. Today it looks peaceful, but less than 200 years ago it was linked to the executions of prisoners. From the 1930s it held a small hotel and restaurant.
Here is exactly how it worked when I went:
Where the boat leaves: in front of Napoli Cafe, near Filellinon Square.
How often: every 30 minutes in high season.
How long: about 10 minutes across, followed by a guided tour of around 20 minutes.
Boat ticket: €5 return.
Fortress entry: €7 full price or €5 reduced.
Opening hours change by month, and on some free museum days entry is free, although you still pay for the boat. Prices were correct as of 2025, so please check before you go. I list more trips in Nafplio boat tours.
Walking the Arvanitia to Karathona Trail
If I had to choose one favourite experience, it would be walking the Arvanitia promenade and continuing on the trail to Karathona. It is great for walking, running and cycling. It is easy, with almost no steep sections, and there are benches along the way where you can sit and look out over the Argolic Gulf. You can continue past the beach to the little church of Agios Nikolaos.
Along the path there are small hidden beaches. The easy ones get crowded, but if you make the effort to reach the harder ones, you will be rewarded with incredible clear blue water almost to yourself.
The trail is also famous for its cats, and most of them are black. There are dozens, so bring them a few treats.
Karathona Beach: My Real Costs
Karathona Beach is more than a kilometre long, mostly sandy, and lined with eucalyptus and palm trees. It has a Blue Flag, and the water is shallow, which makes it great for kids. Just off the shore you can see tiny rocky Karathona Island, which you can only reach by boat.
Do not expect much infrastructure. In high season there are a couple of beach bars and some water fun, like inflatable slides. Here is what I paid:
Two sunbeds and an umbrella: €15.
One hour on the inflatable water park: €15.
Local bus from Nafplio in summer: €2.
Locals often drive here with their own umbrellas for the whole day, and some stay for a barbecue at night. If you prefer a fancier spot, Arvanitia Beach is right at the other end of the trail by Acronafplia. The seabed there is sandy but the shore is rocky, so getting in can be a little tricky. See all my picks in the best beaches near Nafplio.
The Wednesday and Saturday Farmers Market
If you are in town on a Wednesday or Saturday, visit the farmers market. It runs from early morning until lunchtime and is surprisingly big. Locals buy their fruit, vegetables, herbs and fish here, because it is fresher and cheaper than the supermarkets.
When I Think Is the Best Time to Visit
Most people come in the height of summer, and I understand why, because the sea is amazing. But Nafplio is also beautiful in winter, especially around Christmas, when the whole town is decorated. If you are in Greece in December, do not miss it. Read more in the best time to visit Nafplio.
Where I Stayed in Nafplio
[ADD: the name of your hotel or apartment, why you chose it, what you liked and anything you did not like]
For more options, see my guide on where to stay in Nafplio and my list of the best hotels in Nafplio.
Day Trips I Recommend from Nafplio
Nafplio is the perfect base for exploring the Argolis. The ancient theatre of Epidaurus and the royal city of Mycenae are both close enough for an easy half day. I also made a video about Tolo, a little village very close to Nafplio. See every option in day trips from Nafplio.
My Quick Tips for Nafplio
Wear good shoes. The old town is cobbled and the castles are all uphill.
Climb Palamidi early. The steps are hard work in the summer heat.
Carry cash for the Bourtzi boat and the beach sunbeds.
Visit the market on a Wednesday or Saturday morning.
Pack cat treats for the Arvanitia trail.
Nafplio Greece FAQ
How long is the bus from Athens to Nafplio?
My bus took about 2 hours and 20 minutes, going via the Corinth Isthmus and Argos.
How much is the boat to Bourtzi?
When I went, the return boat was €5, and entry to the fortress was €7 full price or €5 reduced.
Is Karathona Beach good for kids?
Yes. The water is shallow and calm, and it has a Blue Flag.
Is Nafplio worth visiting in winter?
Yes, especially at Christmas, when the town is beautifully decorated.
For more answers, see my full Nafplio FAQ.
Final Thoughts
Nafplio is magical and unforgettable. Once you come here, you will want to return, or maybe even stay forever. I certainly plan to go back and explore more of the Argolis, and I will keep updating this guide each time I do. If you have questions, leave a comment below, and I will answer from my own experience.
About the author: Eva Anatoli is a travel creator who films and writes about Greece. [ADD: a short line about how many times you have visited Greece and a link to your YouTube channel]